Tobago is being slowly recognised as one of the
Caribbean’s most spectacular dive spots — and
one that is still uncrowded and unspoiled, with excellent
visibility, plenty of variety and challenge, and
unsurpassed marine life.
Some of the best
diving in Tobago is to be found around Speyside, on the
north-east coast. A semi-permanent colony of giant manta
rays is a perennial attraction there — though
migration patterns mean they might not always be around.
The fact that some divers insist on trying to
“ride” the mantas might also be responsible for
their periods of absence: the best policy is “Look,
but don’t touch.”
Indeed, that maxim
should be applied to just about everything else you
encounter underwater, in Speyside or elsewhere, both
diving and snorkelling, since coral is extremely fragile.
The reefs off Tobago
are incredibly well-endowed with coral growth, thanks to
the flood waters of Venezuela’s Orinoco River, which
wash around the island bringing a rich payload of
plankton and micro-organisms. Most of the known coral
species flourish on Tobago’s ubiquitous reefs —
including the world’s largest recorded brain coral,
which grows just off the coast of Little Tobago Island.
Not surprisingly, the fish population is almost as
diverse, with everything from tiny reef jewels to eels,
turtles and sharks. You never know what you’re going
to bump into out there.
Tobago offers a number
of excellent diving areas: other popular sites include St
Giles Islands, off the island’s north tip; Flying
Reef and The Shallows, off the south tip; and the Mt
Irvine Wall, which offers particularly good night diving.
The Sisters, off the north-west coast, is also pretty
dramatic. Last year, the 350-foot Scarlet Ibis,
which once provided ferry service between Tobago and
Trinidad, was deliberately sunk three-quarters of a mile
off Mount Irvine, and has already become an interesting
dive target, as has another vessel, the Maverick.
Sea conditions off the
Caribbean coast tend to be calmer, with fewer currents;
in the north and south, the diving is more suited to
those with some experience, since you could find yourself
in for a brisk ride. Your first and most important safety
precaution should be: Dive only with a qualified
operator.
Donna Yawching
NOTICE: There are a few dive stations
in Tobago I have to call "kill me quick". They
lure sharks with fresh meat and jump in after, just to
offer their customers shark atractions. This is a serious
thing. You are risking your life. So make sure you know
who you are diving with !!!
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